This project covers installing vinyl siding. Cut an outside corner post to run from 1/2 inch below the bottom of the starter strip to the eave or gable underhang. Hold the post 1/4 inch below the underhang (so it will be 3.
When I was approached about doing a 1. In particular, I am working on two side by side bungalow style homes build in the late 1. One of the best features of these homes is the full width front and back porches.
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All four porches have seen better times and all four required complete demolition and rebuild. My new porch design did depart slightly from the original framing which consisted primarily of 2. To meet the current hurricane code standards that are required here in Florida I had to beef things up slightly by using 2. Needless to say we had plenty of cutting to do and it was a great chance to try these seven saws out to see who made? Good point, but as we will see, a sliding miter saw would have been overkill for several reasons.
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The first biggie in choosing to do this review is that we are interested in job site portability and storage. Lets face it, in most job site trailers space is a premium, and since the physical size of the regular 1. When it comes to having to carry a saw around, lighter is better which is always the case when comparing the regular to the slider. Another big consideration is the reality that for many trim and framing scenarios, you typically are not going to be working with material that is larger than 8. For the miter saw purest, a fixed head (non- sliding) miter saw will always deliver more exact cut since there is less potential of side ways movement and mechanism wear. This is not to say that sliding miters saws are not useful, because we can make an argument to that end; for the sake of simplicity, portability, and price we will focus on 1. All the saws have 1.
Each of the saws came with a carbide tipped blade that ranged from 3. For adjustments all the saws are able to offer both left and right miter cuts past 4. Since we do not always have control over the products that come in and every manufacture does not offer both single and dual bevel capabilities, we had to review what was available. Some of the saws in this review are single bevel and some are dual. The last item of commonality is that all the saws provide for preset miter and bevel angles. They all have at least 9 positions of built- in miter stops with a dedent at 0 degrees and detents in both directions at 1.
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For bevel stops they have detents at 0 and 4. Testing Preparation. As the saws came in, we carefully opened each box and inspected the tools inside. When checking out a brand new saw, one of the first things we do is to verify the how true the blade is to the table and fence. We verified and actually had to adjust the squareness of two of the saws that came in.
Neither was far off but since we wanted to do precision measurements of cut angles, we went ahead and adjusted the fence on these saws. While some guys might point this out as a negative on the manufacture or their product, we are going to let the out of square arrival of the saw go, given the abuse that packages experiences when going though the shipping channels. It really is a wonder that they arrive with any kind of accuracy. Any carpenter worth their salt should periodically verify and adjust their saw to meet their required level of accuracy anyways. To further even the playing field we removed the factory installed blades and replaced each with a brand new 1. These laser cut blades are made in Italy and feature thin kerf ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) ground carbide teeth.
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Since each saw now will be cutting with the same new blade, it makes it easier to test the performance of each saw. Degree Cut Capacity Testing.
Testing seven saws is not something that happens all at once or in a very fast way. These are large size tools and it takes a while to get to know the features of each tool. Thankfully we had a reasonable amount of time to use the saws on multiple occasions in testing in the shop and out in the field on one of the four porches we have been working on. In testing, one of the first thing that comes to mind with a miter saw is how big a piece of wood will it cut. Given the blade size you would think that all the saws would have about the same cut capacity, but given the geometry of the blade axis, the fence and the swing arm design there is some room for differences. First we tried different size pieces of nominal sized lumber at a 9. Of course each saw was able to handle any of these materials.
The capacities listed in the specifications chart are based on our test measurements for the widest and thickest pieces that could be cut laying flat on the table and sitting vertically against the fence. In our deck building, we largely used these saws for cutting the 2. Since each saw had the same blade and essentially the same size 1. Angled Cut Capacity Testing. Miter angle cuts on all the saws were easy to adjust and lock In, even if it was not one of the preset detents.
There is a range of methods to adjust and lock in the miters with most of the saws having a screw down type handle to lock in the miter angle. All the saws had at least 9 miter stops with the De. Walt being the one with more at 1. These preset angle stops make it a snap to quickly find common cut angles.
All the saws allowed an override on the detents with the Milwaukee providing the most accurate way to measure miter angles thanks to its digital miter angle readout. All the saws were able to fully rotate the table in both left and right directions. The commonalities in the bevel cuts with these saws is where we discovered the largest differences. Since some of these saws in this review are single bevel and others are dual, there are some obvious differences there. All the saws have stops at 0 and 4. The saws without the crown cut setting at least have a mark for it on the bevel scale.
If you are not a regular at cutting crown molding, it can be one of the most challenging cuts to make since they need a compound angle cut. Since all these saws allow for compound angle miter cuts you no longer have to use the traditional method of standing your crown trim boards upside down against the fence. You can easily set the miter and bevel and cut the crown trim laying face up, flat against the table. What we loved is that the Ridgid saw actually put a crown cutting guide permanently affixed to the table on their saw. I’ll admit every time I cut crown, since I only do it rarely, it takes a little thinking to still get it right even with the built- in angle stops. Adjusting the bevel angles varied greatly. Most of the ones we tested have some sort of large rotating handle on the back of the saw that must be loosened before you can pivot the head.
On these saws you must reach behind or the saw to adjust. The Hitachi has a unique micro adjustment that, once the main screw is loose, you can rotate the barrel to dial in an exact angle. With the Milwaukee and the Bosch, there are handles that can be search easily from the front of the saw that make adjusting the bevel angles very effortless. Conclusion. For most reading a comparison article, you are probably looking for a winner to be declared. My intentions in the beginning was to crown a winner but after spending time with each saw I realized that while some saws did have more features that I appreciated, I was not able to name a single miter saw that does everything.
This is not one of those issues were we did not want to hurt feelings ether. Think about it, I looked at a budget minded Skil. Saw and used it next to the most expensive Milwaukee.
Sure there are differences but in the scope of the abilities of the saw to cut wood accurately and repeatedly, those differences became small. What I discovered more than anything is that your next miter saw purchase will probably come down to price and feature preference not saw performance. For the guy cutting crown trim on a regular basis, the Dewalt, Hitachi and Milwaukee are best suited because of their dual bevel capabilities. The Bosch, Makita and Skil. Saw are by far the most portable since they weigh the least and have some of the smallest overall dimensions making them ideal for the contractor that need a mobile setup. I would go as far to speculate that no mater what saw you choose, you will probably not be disappointed if you make the purchase after doing your homework on the features that it has.
Saw Overviews. Bosch CM1. Pros: Compact size, Integrated expanding table extensions, Easy access side bevel level. Cons: Clunky thumb activated trigger safety, No crown bevel detent. Even though this is a single bevel model, the Bosch miter saw has a lot of nice features that make it an easy choice. The side mounted motor and gear- drive provide the second fastest speed of all the saws that we tested at just over 4. RPM. What surprised us is that this saw is visually more compact than many that we looked at, yet it allowed some of the tallest cuts through material held against the fence.
Bevel adjustments were among the easiest to make as well since it did not involve reaching behind the saw. There is an easy to manipulate lever mounted towards the back on the right side of the saw that you just pull towards you to release bevel pivot. We really liked the integrated table extensions that expand easily out of the base from both sides of the saw. De. Walt DW7. 16. Pros: Quiet, Tons of miter and bevel detents, removable fence allows for cutting up to 2. Since this is a belt drive, this saw has dual bevel abilities and offers five bevel detents and can tilt to 4.
We liked the lack of a twist miter lock and really favor the speedy leaver lock and 1. We found the saw to be accurate out of the box and setup was easy. Probably our biggest gripe is that if you hold your thumb to the side of the handle, rather than down, you can expect the blade guard to swing up and potentially slice your thumb as you move the head of the saw towards your workpiece. The good news is that this will only happen once before you learn how De. Walt intended you to hold the handle.